No reason to change your mind. I generally use a size 14 needle (90) for most of my embroidery with no problems and I've done a lot of applique.
Molly
I'm about to begin applying a large applique with design over the logo of one of those non-woven polypropylene bags. I'm thinking that I should use a #12 sharp needle. Does anyone have experience to encourage me on or to change my mind?
No reason to change your mind. I generally use a size 14 needle (90) for most of my embroidery with no problems and I've done a lot of applique.
Molly
Here is a site that discusses what type of needle to use.
http://www.schmetzneedles.com/schmetz1.htm
Hugs,Patty
That is a real good link thanks!![]()
Thanks for the Schmetz link, p_lanter.
I do have something similar already printed out but was looking for a specific reference to the non-woven polypropylene. I have not embroidered on this stuff before. Because it's a non-woven fabric is why I was leaning towards a sharp needle...
Also copy this and save as well this really explains things a little better about selecting the right needle. One more thing make sure you use extra stabilizer when stitching a dense design.
Selecting a suitable machine needle for your project should be based on the weight & type of fabric and the weight & type of thread you are going to use on your project. The heavier the fabric and denser the weave, the larger the needle will need to be, and the opposite.
The most commonly used needle sizes in machine embroidery (in both European & American numbering systems) are 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14. Machine embroidery needles have a slightly larger eye and groove in the shank, protecting embroidery threads from shredding or breaking (for use with rayon & polyester embroidery threads).
Needles are available in many types - Sharps, Wedge (cutting) Points, Ball Points & Metallics.
Sharp point is good for most woven fabrics that won't unravel. Sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric.
Ball point is used with knits and other stretchy fabrics, when it's important to avoid cutting the goods by needle penetration. The rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel.
Wedge points are for leather, vinyl and other heavy and very dense materials. These needles are for fabrics which are not woven as they make a small slit rather than hole. The wrong needle on leather would cut the design out.
Fortunately, needle manufacturers have also designed marvelous needles for specialty embroidery thread like metallic, glitter and other delicate exotic fibers. Specialty needles (like Sullivan's Metafil, Madeira's Metallic, Schmetz Metallica etc..) have larger coated eyes and deeper scarfs to handle the thread more easily.
Please don't forget to test-stitch the design with the type of needle you're going to use on final project. There are always exceptions to the rules, and it's always a good idea test the needle and other components before using them on final projecs, to avoid unpleasant surprises.
Hugs, Patty
After all of this, I can't believe it...I am out of #12 sharps so will settle for the stand-by Universal. I went and put on my big girl panties so if this doesn't work out, I will not throw a tantrum, will not, will not! Wish me luck.
Arrrrrrgh. Now my machine is acting silly...
Sometimes if you put it down and walk away for a few it'll do better or act right.
Molly
Yup. Just now figured what happened...I saved it in Horizontal rather than Vertical because that was the position it was in as I was editing the design. My machine did not know what to do. Silly things that we do.
Lo Cole, you're starting to sound like me hehehe![]()
Sounds good to me..I only worry about knits being the ball point, but I believe you are right.....
SUE
thanks patty, I never really know what to use unless i'm using metallic threads
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